Troy Hill: What Do You Believe In?
- grws269
- Apr 30
- 5 min read
I'll begin by saying this: I am not a religious person, but there are some things in life, in humanity, that make even I long for belief.
Our third trip into Pittsburgh took the Travel Class to Troy Hill, which really is up on a hill. If you don't believe me, drive (or better yet, walk) up to it yourself, or seek another way to ascend:
Now, don't be fooled by this incredible deal. 5 cent ride all day? In this economy? Unfortunately, the Troy Hill Incline is one of many to close down, though this one, opened in 1888, only lasted about ten years. The answer is no, not in this economy.
So, what's up on Troy Hill?
Aside from being a Pittsburgh neighborhood like any other, with business, residence, and many a church, Troy Hill is home to the Saint Antony Chapel, a shrine possessing the largest collection of Christian relics second only to the Vatican. Relics can be a vast number of things, from wooden shards said to be from the cross, to actual human remains. like a tooth, bone, or spot of blood said to belong to departed holy figures, such as St. Antony. This list denotes actual examples of the relics housed at the Chapel, all of which are visible to the public, most adorned in gold behind a wall-to-wall glass case. Despite my agnosticism, such a sacred space felt rightfully solemn.
The Shrines of Pittsburgh website on relics quotes St. Jerome as saying this:
"We do not worship, we do not adore, for fear that we should bow down to the creature rather than to the Creator, but we venerate the relics of the martyrs in order the better to adore Him whose martyrs they are."
I'd like to acknowledge the significance of St. Antony of Padua. The Shrines of Pittsburgh website referred to him as the "Wonder-Worker," while Chris, a volunteer worker for the Chapel, explained St. Antony as the patron saint of lost things. For some, this might mean a prized possession, like a favorite stuffed toy, or even an item you misplace every day, like your keys or phone. For others, it might mean your eyesight, ability to walk, or child.
When asked which, if any, saint Chris felt connected to, he answered:
"St. Peter. He rejected Christ three times, and went on to become the first Pope. It gives me hope... that God could do work through such a flawed person."
How lucky that goodness could come from any, and all, of us flawed people.
Chris was also happy to tell me the story of the Chapel's founder, Fr. Suitbert Godfrey Mollinger. Because I was unable to record our conversation, I have cited two pages of the Shrines of Pittsburgh website on Fr. Mollinger to confirm the information I heard.
Fr. Mollinger, born to the Kingdom in Belgium in 1828, was educated in medicine in Naples, Rome, and Genoa, before studying for priesthood in Ghent. He moved to the America and continued his studies until his ordination in 1857.
Fr. Mollinger's lifetime was one marked by war and unrest. From the late 1700's to the late 1800's, notorious leaders like Otto von Bismark, Guiseppe Mazzini, Camillo Benso (Count of Cavour), and Guiseppe Garibaldi emerged at the core of a new European social order, the former promoting the interests of his Prussian homeland by uniting the then 100+ independent Germanic states, and the latter three orchestrating the unification of Italy over the Risorgimento (or resurrection) for Italian independence from Austria.
Another result of this tumultuous period was the Catholic Church's loss of the Papal States, followed by the destruction and displacement of sacred spaces and relics, many of which wound up on the "black market" or in pawn shops.
People like Fr. Mollinger sought to recollect these relics, and he did so all across Europe using his personal funds. And, once stationed in Pennsylvania, he used his funds once more to finance the Chapel of St. Anthony to hold his collection of relics.
At the same time in America, the Civil War came and went, leaving many in need of open healing and hope. So perhaps more impressive than his vast and harrowing number of relics was Fr. Mollinger's dedication to the ailed. As Priest, he delivered free medical aid to those in need, tending to an estimated 100 - 150 people in a day, and by the end of his life, the Chapel saw 10,000 - 15,000 pilgrims a year visiting both for his religious guidance and healing capabilities. According to Shrines of Pittsburgh, his generosity often earned him repayment in the form of hefty donations in addition to international esteem.
If you visit the museum and gift shop across the street, you will find further testament to Fr. Mollinger's history of goodwill, including a collection of mobility aids (seen above) said to have belonged to patients healed or cured by Fr. Mollinger. He, like many Catholics, believed in miracles of God. I would call it a miracle that a person would spend their life caring for others as he did.
In addition to his medical work on Troy Hill, Fr. Mollinger worked to acquire further Catholic relics from Europe and to expand upon the Chapel. One facet of such expansion is impossible to miss: life-sized, deeply realistic wood-carved stations depicting the crucifixion of Christ, imported from Germany and completed in 1982.
Soon upon entering, you come face-to-face with the stations, spotlit and close enough to touch, lifelike and sometimes grisly. I pushed myself to remember the faces in each scene-- Sunday School makes a quiet echo in my mind, and despite my not knowing who each character was, they felt familiar to me, like walking through a bedroom from early childhood. Fuzzy, dreamlike, until you can see it before you again.
In examining the stations, I felt especially drawn to the detailed hands and feet of each character. They felt so lifelike and human, and so vulnerable. I don't often think of how painful and slow a death crucifixion would have been. Somehow, this notion adds to how meaningful it is that Jesus would forgive his even his killers.
The Chapel's popularity lives on in modernity, the gift shop sporting cards blessed by the touch of the relics of St. Antony and others, colorfully beaded angels to adorn one's house, charms and jewelry for those looking to carry their faith close to them.
Regardless of your religion, the Chapel of St. Antony is a beautiful monument to Pittsburgh's history with its Gods, and a must for the educational tourist. At the time of my visit, prayer candles were available for a $5 donation, and some visitors sat in the pews for silent worship.
The quiet of a church feels thick with energy some think unique to humans: belief in something larger than ourselves. Miracles, goodwill, the community of human nature. I would return to the Chapel in Troy Hill if only to hear it again.
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